Day Two: On the Road to Augusta

By Shane Sharp,
Contributor

AIKEN, SC -- Clearing the cobwebs from one's head from a solid night of imbibing is as much a part of a golf road trip as greasy spoon diners and gas station coffee. And true to form, that is exactly where the head clearing began on this morning.

The Capital Café in Columbia is just a chip shot from the state capital, and serves up plenty of comfort food in a 1950's style atmosphere. The coffee is best taken black, everyone in the joint was named "hon" according to the three waitresses on shift, and the Confederate flag, the University of South Carolina Gamecocks spring football practices, and the weather were the talk of the morning.

Today's target was Aiken, a small, quaint retirement town that comes off something like a Norman Rockwell painting on grits. Located just off the not so beaten path that is Interstate 20, Aiken is thoroughbred horse country, and the tightly manicured fields and miles of wooden fences reflect its equestrian tendencies.

There is a proud, stubborn side to Aiken that is intrinsically entwined with the town's history. In February of 1865 during the Civil War, General Sherman entered South Carolina on his march toward Columbia fresh off his torching of Georgia. Sherman sent a detachment of the Fifth United States Cavalry under the command of General Hugh Judson Kilpatrick to destroy the cotton mill at Graniteville.

General Joe Wheeler and his confederates were ordered to oppose the raid, and General Kilpatrick, probably overestimating the strength of General Wheeler's command, decided to retreat and the cotton mill was saved.

The drive from Aiken to Columbia is unremarkable, but with Augusta close enough to make out the scent of dogwoods and azaleas, the landscape had become inconsequential. We got off the Interstate and headed south on Highway 1. Twenty-seven holes, a lumberjack dinner and heads hitting pillows before the 11 p.m. Sports Center was the plan, and Augusta would be just a 30-minute drive the following morning.

Downtown Aiken is an interesting mix of quaint shops, old businesses, and surprisingly excellent restaurants. The "pace of play" along the town's streets is as slow and relaxed as the molasses-like southern dialect of the locals. In short, if southern fried is not your flavor, you might want to look elsewhere.

Out on the golf course, the pace of life doesn't seem to change. Aiken has emerged as one of the most affordable retirement communities in the state, so chances are you'll run up on some seasoned citizens and their pull carts. But feel free to just relax and enjoy the scenery because you are not likely to find more well-mannered, ridiculously cheery folk. And if you feel the need to minimize your run in's with the local gentry, then plan on playing in the afternoon as the early bird specials are getting fired up around town.

Our sources informed us that Cedar Creek Golf Club was the best new track in the area, so we beat it over to 2475 Club Dr. to check it out. The course opened in 1992, and was designed by Toledo, Ohio based architect Arthur Hills.

You can bet your last biscuit that not many locals want to test the layout from its 7200 back tees. For a modern course, we found Cedar Creek to be straightforward, fair, and for the most part, all it cracked up to be, and at $30 for a weekday play, the course is a total steal.

Fueled by daylight savings time and a three-hour round at Cedar Creek, we were off to fit in at least another nine holes. Word on the Aiken street was that the Midland Valley Country Club was the best place for us to get a true taste of Aiken tradition. Midland Valley is the granddaddy of Aiken golf and is considered one of, if not the, best facilities in the area.

Pinehurst native and legendary Carolina course architect Ellis Maples designed the course, which is as traditional as church and brunch on a Sunday morning in Aiken. And for only $30 to $35 for a round of golf, Midland Valley is one of the true bargains of the Midlands. Fans of Ellis and his son Dan already, we were relieved to find the typical Maples bunkers fronting up to fifty percent of the greens, some great driving holes, and some imaginative par threes.

Aiken also rings in with a true stay and play opportunity with the Houndslake Country Club (803-648-3333). There are three sets of nines on site, all designed by Joe Lee. The only catch? All three are private layouts, but are accessible to you if you stay in the Houndslake Guest House.

The Santee, Pee Dee Sidetrip

Budget yourself an extra couple of days for a sojourn through the heart of the Santee/Pee Dee River basin. It is nearly impossible to travel around the Midlands and not see a sign for something involving the Santee or the Pee Dee. Both are located east of Columbia, and there is plenty of affordable, sensible golf to be had in both areas.

The Santee area centers on Lake Marion and Lake Moultrie, and is very accessible from Columbia if you want to work it in to the first part of the trip. No Midlands side trip would be complete without a romp through a Russell Breeden designed course, and you'll find a good one in the Hillcrest Golf and Tennis Club.

If it is convenience from the interstate system you dig, check out the Lake Marion Golf Course located just a pitching wedge from I-95. The course (pictured) is part of the Santee Cooper Resort, and is as close to a country club feeling, as you'll get in the region. The course opened back in 1979, and presents a mature, narrow layout with an unpretentious clubhouse and staff. The Resort is also home to the Santee Cooper Country Club, the property's original 18-hole layout.

In the Pee Dee region, two courses stand out as must plays: Sandy Point Golf Club and the Traces Golf Club. Sandy Point actually sports bentgrass greens, a rarity for this region, and boats some of the tighter fairways in the Pee Dee area. The Traces is a James Goodson designed track that in the modern fashion features four sets of tees and behemoth greens you could park an airplane on.

Where to Eat in Aiken

A safe bet is to just walk around downtown and select a joint that is to your liking. If you don't feel like battling the crowds in "bustling" downtown Aiken, No. 10 Downing Street (803.642.9062), which is actually located at 241 Laurens Street in S.W. Aiken, is a fine place to hunker down on some lamb, seafood and steaks. According to a knowledgeable staff member, the menu changes monthly, so call ahead if you are the type that wants to know what's for supper.

Where to Stay in Aiken

Houndslake Country Club is the only real stay and play option, but proximity to the Interstate and the Emerald City of golf assures that Aiken has its allotment of chain motels. The Best Western (803.649.3968) and the Comfort Suite (803.641.1100) are two of the better mainstream roadsides. For a traditional southern lodging experience, try the Holley Inn (803. 648.4265). The elevator is hand operated, the hardwood floorboards creak like an old house, and the barkeep keeps the taps bowing like woodpeckers on speed.

Where to Eat in Santee Cooper

If you venture off the strip mall dominated SC 6, you'll find a good assortment of local eateries. Lone Star Barbecue and Mercantile (803.854.2000) features an all you can eat BBQ buffet Thursday through Saturday, fish fries and family buffets on Sundays from 11 to 3 p.m.

Clarks, just a chip shot from the Santee Cooper Resort (at right) and Santee National Golf Club, is one of the town's oldest eateries, and is home to an all you can eat lunch buffet with some of the best-fried chicken around. For steaks and seafood, try Chef's Choice Steakhouse (803.492.3410) just off Old Number 6 Highway.

Where to Stay in Santee Cooper

The Ashley Inn (803.854.3870) boasts the most local flavor, and is family owned and operated. The Ramada Inn (800.635.5642) is just spitting distance from the golf resort and offers golf packages year around.

April 10, 2002

Shane Sharp is vice president of Buffalo Communications, a golf and lifestyle media agency. He was a writer, senior writer and managing editor of TravelGolf.com from 1997 to 2003.