ROADTRIPPER: BEAUFORT, S.C

Storied town charmed Yanks, sets sights
on charming duffers

By Shane Sharp,
Contributing Writer

BEAUFORT, S.C. (Dec. 28, 2003) -- The bluecoats were fond of this charming city a half a days march north of Hilton Head Island. So fond, they not only spared it a torching on their Civil War march to the sea, they made it a Union headquarters.

Thanks to this fortuitous preservation, the Beaufort of today is strikingly similar to that of yesteryear. Streets are lined with antebellum homes and live oaks dating back to the late 1700s and early 1800s. Many of the town's mansions were built after the Revolutionary War and are listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

• Country Club of Beaufort at Pleasant Point • South Carolina National Golf Club • Hilton Head Golf Courses

Despite its historical accolades, Beaufort hasn't seen it fit to rest on its laurels. Fortune magazine lists the town in its 10 most affordable places to retire, and USA Today dubbed it one of America's 10 Great Places for the All-American Honeymoon. Even Hollywood caught the Beaufort bug. Over a dozen movies have been filmed along its shores, including "Forrest Gump," "The Big Chill," and "Prince of Tides."

Lest we bore you, oh traveling golfer, with these un-golf related pearls, Beaufort's (pronounced "bew-furt") golfing options rival its historical wares.

Nearby Hilton Head and its legion of resort tracks would appear to be the logical golf attraction. But sift through this Lowcountry geography and a handful of attractive alternatives emerge. Beaufort and sister city, Port Royal, are situated amid an archipelago of barrier islands that house a handful of the area's hidden golf panaceas.

Golfing around Beaufort

Fripp Island Resort: Fripp Island Resort sits 19 miles east of Beaufort, a 3,000-acre resort playground equipped with three 18-hole layouts, swimming pools, spas, croquet courts, a basketball arena, shuffleboard and bocce courts. Accommodations range from one-bedroom villas to spacious beachfront homes. You'd be hard pressed to find a more self-contained resort experience in the entire Lowcountry.

Like many of the barrier islands of the region, Fripp's history is inexorably tied to the coast's swashbuckling 17th century pirates. Johannes Fripp was awarded the island by King Charles of England for defending the English settlement in Beaufort against the ruthless buccaneers.

Fast-forward to the 22nd century and traveling golfers are rewarded with three oceanfront golf tracks courtesy of Carolina mainstay George Cobb and local boy made good, Davis Love III. Cobb's Ocean Point Golf Links is one of the Lowcountry's oldest layouts, having opened in 1960. Love III's Ocean Creek Golf Course opened in 1995 to rave reviews from regional and national golfing publications. Fripp Island Resort's third course, South Carolina National, is Cobb's final design and is actually located 18 miles away on Cat Island.

Daufuskie Island Club and Resort: Native son and best-selling author Pat Conroy immortalized Daufuskie Island in his novel, The Water is Wide, while Nicklaus, Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish have lent their hands in scripting the island's future by designing two of the Lowcountry's more intriguing, all be them lesser-known golf courses.

Settle in for a scenic car ride and head south from Beaufrot to the Daufuskie Island Club and Resort. Daufuskie is the southernmost of South Carolina's barrier islands and is accessible only via a 40-minute ferry ride from Hilton Head. Golfers in search of post-round parties and other forms of extraneous entertainment need not apply. Tired souls looking for spiritual replenishment, historical perspective and quality golf will find a sleepy island resort graced by an historic inn, an equestrian center and a handful of colorful beach cottages.

The Nicklaus designed Melrose Course is Daufuskie Island Club and Resort's pride and joy and is the most popular play among guests. The course oozes Pete Dye -- the Golden Bear's mentor at nearby Harbour Town Golf Links -- but is forgiving enough to be deemed "resort" golf. The final three holes play right along the Atlantic Ocean. The par-5 18th, with the ocean in play along the right side of the fairway, is widely considered the most scenic finishing hole in the state.

The Bloody Point Course, on the island's south end, is a Weiskopf/Morrish design that originally was crafted as a walking course for a separate development but is now part of the resort's golf arsenal. The course meanders along the banks of the Mungen River and through the dark lagoons and coastal marshes. Both courses are currently available for outside play, but the resort's new owners plan to limit play to resort guests and members in the near future.

Fripp Island Resort (800) 845-4100 Daufuskie Island Resort (888) 524-0495 www.daufuskieresort.com The Country Club of Beaufort (800) 869-1617 Lady's Island Country Club (843) 524-3635

Also playing: The Country Club of Beaufort is a Russell Breeden course on Lady's Island that's been serving up affordable daily fee golf since 1970. Lady's Island Country Club (formerly Royal Pines Golf and Country Club), just down the road, houses two 18-hole layouts. The Pines Course is a circa 1969 design that never met a dogleg it didn't like. The venerable Marsh Course (1955) is one of the area's oldest offerings but remains a local favorite.

Orientation

From Charlotte, N.C., take I-77 South to Columbia, then I-26 East toward Charleston. At exit 169A, merge onto I-95 South toward Savannah. Take U.S. 17 North (exit 33) to U.S. 21 South to Beaufort. The nearest airport is the Savannah/Hilton Head International airport.

Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management. The information in this story was accurate at the time of publication. All contact information, directions and prices should be confirmed directly with the golf course or resort before making reservations and/or travel plans.