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RESTAURANT REVIEWS

The Boathouse Restaurant mixes
casual atmosphere
with fine dining in a
true Lowcountry setting

By Shane Sharp,
Contributing Writer

ISLE OF PALMS, S.C. (May 21, 2002) - Walking around downtown Charleston, you'll soon learn a couple things about the Holy City's seafood restaurants: there are casual joints, and there is fine dining. Finding an eatery that perfectly balances the two is challenging.

That is, unless you make the 15 minute drive over the Cooper River Bridge to Isle of Palms and the Boathouse Restaurant.

The Boathouse Restaurant at Beach Inlet is the brainchild of Richard S.W. Stoney, whose only complaint about his beloved hometown was that it was all-or-nothing-at-all when it came to seafood restaurants. Stoney's goal was to serve the best seafood in the Lowcountry in an atmosphere that defiantly screamed flip-flops and tee shirts.

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So you see it's no accident that the Boathouse at Beach Inlet churns out some of the best seafood and steaks in town while coming off as something like neighborhood pub. There's an outdoor bar upstairs, equipped with the obligatory acoustic guitar player, ice cold long neck beers, and "you must be kidding me" views of Charleston Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean.

Downstairs is a cozy dining room with white paneled walls, dark wood tables and chairs, and a wine list to go nose-to-nose with any fancy joint downtown. The Boathouse was a recipient of Wine Spectator's 2001 Award of Excellence, and sports a list of nearly 50 reds, 40 whites and 10 sparkling wines.

"It's an impressive list for any restaurant, but most patrons wouldn't expect it from a casual seafood restaurant like this," says Steve DeGuzman, a regular Boathouse patron and former restaurateur for Hooters, Inc. "This is the type of place you can bring food snobs, scare them when you first arrive, and then knock their socks off when the menu and wine list arrives."

The menu revolves around fresh, grilled fish, ranging from Mahi Mahi and Atlantic Salmon to Black Grouper and Yellow Fin Tuna. All fish are prepared with your choice of pesto, tarragon butter, Dijon mustard glaze, soy-ginger butter or blackened seasoning. For those craving Calabash style (fried) seafood, shrimp, scallops and oysters in two and three combination options are available.

Its not uncommon for locals to pop into the Boathouse for a cold, adult beverage and a supper of appetizers, and its little wonder why: fried green tomatoes in marinara sauce, fried oysters with smoked jalapeno mayo, and crab fritters with green Tabasco sauce grace the starter menu and are even too tempting to pass up when a full meal is on the way.

That full meal, on this occasion, was a rib eye steak topped with a crab cake and smothered in fried onions and green Tabasco sauce. A similar special of the evening offered filet mignon instead of rib eye, and a lobster tail in addition to the crab cake. The steaks were simply incredible, and the crab cakes were massive and tasty.

A full arsenal of steaks and seafood would be enough to make the Boathouse a regional favorite, but an array of pastas and house specialties only add to the restaurant's legend. Dishes like penne with smoked salmon served with capers, tomatoes, red onion & fresh herbs in a bacon cream sauce and andouille crusted Mahi Mahi baked and served with a roasted garlic and shallot sauce are enough to push the Boathouse beyond the ordinary and into rarified air.

Golfers are more than welcome at the Boathouse, and you just might find that khaki's and polo shirts are as snazzy as it gets for the evening. Both the RiverTowne Country Club - an awesome new track from the Palmer Design Group -- and Dunes West - a traditionally styled course designed by Arthur Hills -- are only minutes away in Mt. Pleasant.

The Basics
The Boathouse Restaurant Beach Inlet
Isle of Palms, S.C.
843.886.8000

Ratings: Atmosphere: ***** Food: **** Service: *** Value: **

TravelGolf.com Rating System
* Put your dog under the table ** Drink a lot, and it will be fine *** Solid birdie effort **** Qualifies for the Tour ***** Could easily win a major

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